Hatra Documents

The Knitting Research Library

Situated at the Framework Knitters’ Museum, Ruddington,

Nottingham NG11 6HE, United Kingdom

This library was the library of the Knitting Research Centre, Hatra, before its closure.

Listings of Hatra Internal Publications

Key: RFKM = Ruddington Framework Knitters Museum

DMU = Kimberlin Library, De Montfort University, Leicester.

*= publication available at location indicated

1.1 Research Reports

Number Subject Year RFKM DMU

1 Variation of length of fully-fashioned nylon hose 1952

2 Length control of fully-fashioned nylon hose 1954

3 Length control of men's half-hose 1954

4 Length control of fully-fashioned hose — II - the Hosextender 1957

5 Women's foot and leg dimensions 1957

6 Corrosion and lubrication problems with sized nylon yarns on FF hose machines 1958

7 Shrinkage of nylon 66 in steam — a QC test for bulked and stretch yarns 1958

8 Kinetic yarn friction and knitting 1958

9 Geometry and dimensional properties of plain knit fabrics 1959

10 Fabric geometry of plain, interlock, full- and half-cardigan from CF yarns 1961

11 Nylon 66 false twist bulked and stretch yarns 1961

12 The fabric geometry of wet relaxed cotton interlock 1964

13 Worsted 1 x 1 rib fabrics 1964

14 Geometry of weft knitted fabrics 1964 *

15 The Hatra lateral stretch device 1965

16 The lubrication of worsted yarns 1965

17 'Bubbling' and breakdown of natural rubber yarns in sock tops 1970

18 Strength and extensibility of the three-thread overlock seam 1971

19 Needle heating in machine sewing 1971

20 ) 1972

21 ) 1972

22 Yarn lubrication 1972

23 ) 1972

24 ) 1973

25 Hatra double jersey knock-over depth gauge 1972

26 Yarn movement and tension during loop formation in circular knitting 1973

28 The utility of colour difference equations First works trial with Hatra pass/fail system 1973
1973 * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

29 Measurement of flammability 1974 *

30 Electronic measurement of yarn length and speed 1974 *

31 Inter-fibre friction 1974

32 Hatra v-bed knock-over depth gauge 1975

33 Measurement of flammability 1975

34 Seam geometry in knitted fabrics 1975

35 Seam damage in the sewing of knitted fabrics 1975

36 ) 1975

37 Seam geometry in knitted fabrics 1975

38 Measurement of flammability 1975

39 Seam damage in the sewing of knitted fabrics 1975

40 Stains on polyester - PGC 1976

41 Seam geometry in knitted fabrics 1976

47 Stains on polyester — IR spectrophotometry 1976

43 Noise in the knitting industry - survey 1976

44 Dimensional changes in plain knitted fabrics under extension 1976

45 The critical dissolution time of polyester 1977

46 The Hatra hose pressure tester 1977

47 The relationship between verbal descriptions and hue angle 1977

48 The wet relaxed dimensions of plain knitted fabrics 1977

49 The effect of knock-over depth settings on fabric appearance, dimensions, faults 1978

50 Package unwinding during knitting 1978

51 Stains on polyester - PGC 1979

52 Jet v pad/wet steam dyeing of tubular cotton with reactive dyes 1979

53 Colour correction of off-shade polyester using tristimulus colorimeters 1979 (Bound)

54 Cost of chemicals, water, effluent, steam in winch dyeing with reactive dyes 1980

55 Heating of winches by steam injection and heat exchanger 1980

56 Cost variations in jet dyeing of polyester 1981

58 Eight firm comparison of winch dyeing with reactive dyes on cotton 1981

1.2 Internal Reports

Number Subject Year RFKM DMU

1 Pattern preparation system for double jersey fabrics 1972

2 Analysis of excessive dimensional variation of fully-fashioned garments 1972

3 Standards in Europe 1972

4 An assessment of break-spun yarns for knitting 1972

5 An examination of a stock control system in a sock factory 1972

6 Colour measurement — on knitted fabrics 1972

7 Tests with the speedy moisture tester 1972

8 Survey of major developments in garment manufacture on knitting machines 1972

9 Tests on Coats/Shirley electronic length measuring apparatus 1972

10 Possible correlation between elastomer course length and waist extension 1972

11 Problems in the production of plated socks 1972

12 Statistical examination of light fastness assessment 1972

13 Thread movement in a lockstitch sewing machine 1973

14 Retention of bare elastomer yarns in the waistband of tights 1973

15 Thread strength test to predict the traverse strength of a three-thread overlock seam 1973

16 Noise in the knitting industry 1973

17 Instruments to measure pressure of surgical/support hose 1973

18 Metrification in knitting 1973 *

19 Computer programs 1973

23 Extension and slippage at break of sewing thread 1973

24 Drawthreads in trimmings knitted on flat machines

25 Variable relaxation and heat setting of textured polyester

26 Computer programs

27 Computer programs 1975

28 UDC Manual for textiles and clothing 1975 *

29 Measurement of drape 1973

30 Computer programs 1973

31 Orlon Repco self-twist yarns 1973

32 Noise measurement — Billi Zodiac knitting machines 1973 * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

33 The effect of dyeing and finishing on spandex yarns in nylon sock tops

34 Compressive force exerted by support tights

35 Colour measurement — nylon pantyhose 1974

37 Pattern orientation — Hunter D251)2M and Harrison-Shirley colorimeters

38 ) 1974

39 Withdrawal of bare elastomer yarn from seams of tights during washing 1974

40 Compressive force exerted by support tights 1974

41 Power exerted by waistbands in tights 1974

42 Tests with the Hosiery Equipment Multistretch 1974

43 Quantitative estimation of cationic softeners 1974

44 Optimisation of the Adams-Nickerson colour-difference formula 1975

45 Shade sorting of 48 dark brown patterns 1975

46 Noise measurement — Hatra air tensioner 1975

47 Computer-aided lay-planning 1975

48 Project network analysis 1975

49 Design criteria for a proportional feed system for the two-thread chainstitch seam 1975

50 Support hosiery — compression of NHS lightweights 1975

51 Ear protective devices 1975

52 The Hatra barriness scale 1975

53 Assessor and laboratory variations in washing and rubbing fastness tests 1975

54 Acid chlorination test development 1975

55 Colorimetric specifications and visual appearance — 589 group 1975

56 Acid chlorination test development 1975

57 Stain and fibre identification using pyrolysis gas chromatography 1975

58 The Shetland knitting industry 1975

59 Infrared spectrophotometry 1976

60 Colour measurement of four fabric types 1976

61 Colorimeter design features, colour-difference formulae and components 1976

62 Variations of compression exerted by support hose with change of girth 1976

63 Instrumental match correction using tristimulus colorimeters 1976

64 ) 1976

65 ) 1976

66 Washing shrinkage of knitted cotton/polyester blends 1976

67 The Hatra barriness scale

68 Instrumental match correction using tristimulus colorimeters

69 Acid chlorination test development

70 Assessment of the physical properties of fabrics

71 Instrumental match correction using tristimulus colorimeters

72 Water quality requirements and waste water recycling

73 Listings of Hatra internal publications

DMU copies 1 to 30 - bound

1.3 Hatranotes

Number Subject Year RFKM DWI

1 The sizing and fit of women's tights 1969 * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

2 Computer-aided design of filly-fashioned garments 1969

3 The sizing and fit of women's tights 1969

4 Water consumption — nylon hose in paddle machines 1969

5 Aptitude test results and performance of sewing machinists 1969

6 Non-woven fabrics: implications for the knitter 1969

7 Mechanisation of sewing 1969

8 Linkfeed unit for single thread linking machines 1969

9 'Bubbling' and breakdown of natural rubber yarns in sock tops 1969

10 Geometry of weft knitted wool fabrics 1970

11 Water saving 1971

12 Revised computer program for calculating fully-fashioned garment specifications 1971

13 Spirality in weft knitted fabrics 1971

14 Bowing and creasing of weft knitted fabrics 1971

15 Control of laid-in covered elastic in half-hose production 1972

16 Water consumption — nylon socks in paddle machines 1972

17 Water consumption — acrylic garments in paddle machines 1972

18 Instrumental colour measurement 1972

20 Temperature, humidity and the knitter 1972

21 ) 1972

22 Underarm breakdown in cut-and-sew knitted outerwear 1972

23 Linking of trims 1972

24 Water consumption — wool garments in paddle machines 1972

25 Measurement of flammability 1972

26 Colorimeter comparisons 1972

27 Instrumental pass/fail — production control system 1973

28 Solvent scouring 1973

29 Dyelot recipe-card production 1973 * *

30 Examination of open-width fabrics 1973

31 Water consumption — wool hank in Hussong machines 1973

32 Water consumption - synthetic fabrics in winch, beam and jet machines 1974

33 Electrostatic marking of yarn 1974

34 Yarn economy 1974

35 ) 1974

36 Electrostatic marking of yarn 1974

37 Crotch breakdown in tights 1974

38 Orlon Repco self-twist yarns 1974

39 Laddering of knitted fabrics 1975

40 The Hatra sewability tester 1976

41 The drought and water conservation

42 Guide to damage-free sewing 1976 *

43 The Hatra air tensioner for flat knitting machines 1977

44 Moisture and sewability of cotton fabric 1977

45 The drought and water conservation

46 Energy saving checklist

47 New uses for weft knitted fabrics 1978

48 Jet v pad/wet steam dyeing of tubular knitted cotton with reactive dyes

49 Potential for microprocessors

50 Can needle damage be sprayed away? 1980

51 Laddering of knitted fabrics

52 Costs of chemicals, water, effluent, steam in winch dyeing with reactive dyes

53 Heating of winches by steam injection and heat exchanger

54 Improved washing off efficiency with reactive dyes

55 Hearing protection

DMU copies 1 to 30 - bound

1.4 Confidential Reports

Number Subject Year RFKM

1 Fastness to biological washing agents •

2 Biological washing powders — weight loss/wool fabrics

3 Quality control of fully-fashioned garments — Byford Quality Master

4 Improved knittability of worsted yarns

5 Biodegradability of textile chemicals

6 Pass/fail measurement — working instructions

7 LAB colour space and DL, DA, DB colour difference space

8 Comparative efficiencies: Milnor v Smith drum

9 Effluent samplers

10 Instruments for colour measurement and production control 1974 *

11 Biodegradability of textile chemicals

12 Efficiency of Sancowad process for disperse dyeing of nylon

13 Comparative efficiencies: Spencer Dytex v Smith drum

14 Milan ITMA 1975 — wet processing

15 Accuracy of tristimul us colorimeters and the effects of inaccuracies on colour diff

16 City University colour vision test

17 Evaluation of four laboratory HT dyeing machines

18 An investigation of the Esotex device for measurement of fabric take-down tension

19 Jet v pad/wet steam dyeing of tubular knitted cotton with reactive dyes

20 ITMA '79 — knitting and making-up 1979 *

21 ITMA '79 — dyeing and finishing

22 The Wahli debit meter for yarn length

23 An evaluation of needle oils in circular knitting of cotton

1.5 Production Notes

Number Subject Year

1 Use of wool/nylon blends for knitted goods 1951

2 Manufacturing problems — Case Book 1 1951

3 Manufacturing problems — Case Book 2 1952

4 Sodium chlorite as a bleaching agent 1952

5 Processing nylon hose containing mercerised cotton welts 1953

6 Hatra yarn speed meter 1955

7 The enzyme process for removing seed from cotton fabrics 1954

8 Hatra yarn speed meter 1956

9 Manufacturing problems — Case Book 3 1956

10 Knitted stretch fabrics from crimped nylon yarn 1956

11 Hatra yarn length counter 1956

12 Manufacturing problems — Case Book 4 1956

13 Manufacturing problems — Case Book 5 1958

14 Sm ithknit heater 1960

15 Hatra positive feed system — seamless hose machines 1961

16 Manufacturing problems — Case Book 6 1967

17 The Hatra barriness scale 1967

Complete sets available at both RFKM and DMU

1.6 Special Publications

Number Subject Year RFKM DMU

Operations research 1963 * * * * * * * *

False twist heater temperatures and their effect on quality 1963

Lubrication of worsted yarns 1964

Spandex yarns: characteristics and knitting techniques 1964

Machine washability 1965

Hatra publications 1949-1964 1965

The design of fully-fashioned outerwear garments 1966

II The Hatra garment model 1967

Periodicals and serials in the Hatra library 1968

New developments in pattern preparation for double jersey fabrics 1972

European knitting industries: their size, trade organisations and research facilities

Water conversation 1972

Computer-aided lay-planning and cutting 1974

Energy squeeze '77

Hosiery Research Bulletin - Full Set Volumes 1 to 8

Annual Reports — numbers 1 to 27 available at DMU, numbers 18, 20 to 34 and 37 available at RFKM